Today we left Kalai Khum and headed to Khorog along a very dusty, rocky road. Across the Pyanj River, the mountains of Afghanistan loomed. The road on that side of the river looked even worse! And in some places, it seemed to end, and there appeared to be only narrow walking tracks. There were a number of places that were completely blocked by rocks and boulders.  It was amazing how inaccessible the mountains looked, but then you would see a village perched on the side of a steep clearing.

At one stage we heard loud thunderous booms and wondered whether rocks were falling around us…but no they were dynamiting cliffs on the Afghan side. We saw the dust and rocks falling into the river. Glad they weren’t falling on us!

In Khorog we stayed at The Pamir Lodge and met some fellow Australians who had travelled from Darwin across to Timor Leste with their motorbike, they had been on the road for eleven months. Such stamina!